Hammondsplains.ca home energy checklist

YOUR HOME ENERGY CHECKLIST

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Head to the basement, if you have one. If your home only has a crawlspace try to take a peek into it, and then come back to complete the first section. If you don't have a basement or crawlspace, start with the main floor.

Check off those items already in place or completed and ignore those items not applicable to your home.

BASEMENT / CRAWLSPACE

Headers (the beams into which the floor joists sit) and the sillplate (the board which rests on the foundation) are air sealed with caulking or expanding foam. (Air Leakage Control)

Header area is filled with insulation and covered with a vapour barrier. (Insulation)

The 6mm polyethylene vapour barrier is sealed at edges with acoustical caulking to form an air barrier. (Air Leakage Control)

All penetrations through basement walls made by plumbing, electrical, heating services, dryer vent, etc. are air sealed with caulking or expanding foam. (Air Leakage Control)

If you have an unfinished basement or crawlspace, check for leaks by looking for spider webs. Wherever there is a web, there is a draft. (Air Leakage Control)

All basement windows are either air sealed with weatherstripping and caulking, with an exterior storm window such as heat-shrink plastic or magnetic-acrylic interior storms. (Air Leakage Control)

If there is a dirt floor, it is covered with plastic and sealed at the seams and to the basement walls with acoustical caulking, to stop excess moisture from entering your home. (Moisture Control)

All exterior basement walls have more than 5cm (2") of insulation (minimum R-value of R-6 to R-10), running the full height, and there is a sealed air/vapour barrier in place on the warm side of the insulation (facing the room). If you aren't able to see insulation or air sealing behind finished walls, you may want to make a small hole to investigate. Once you have investigated, remember to reseal the hole afterwards. (Insulation)

Furnace and air cleaner filters are cleaned or replaced every one or two months during the heating seasons.

Furnace has a yearly maintenance check done by a heating contractor. Heating & Cooling Systems)

Furnace ductwork is taped at all joints. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

Ductwork which runs through cool or unheated areas is taped, insulated, and covered with an air/vapour barrier. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

Hot water pipes are insulated for at least two metres (6ft) and cold water pipes insulated at least 1 metre (3 ft) from the water heater. (Insulation)

If you have a dishwasher (and it doesn't have a booster heater), water heater temperature is set no higher than 60° C (140° F). For general household use, the water heater temperature should be at 54° C (130° F). Check the temperature of the water at a running tap with a cooking thermometer. (Appliances)

Wood-burning fireplace has tight-fitting damper and glass doors, and no soot stains above the opening on the brick/stone front.

Wood-burning fireplace draws the smoke up the chimney every time it is used and/or has its own supply of outside air for combustion either from a nearby window or a direct vent from outside.

Clothes dryer vents directly outside. (Moisture Control)

The dryer exhaust hood closes tightly after each use (if it is cold outside you may feel a draft inside the dryer chamber, or check the exhaust hood from outside to make sure the flap closes tightly). (Air Leakage Control)

Dehumidifier operates only in the summer to reduce humidity levels in the basement. (Moisture Control)

Where feasible, lights which are used for at least 3 hours a day have been replaced with a more energy efficient bulb. (Lighting)

As they need replacing, all other standard incandescent bulbs are being switched to reduced-wattage incandescent bulbs. (Lighting)

MAIN FLOOR AND SECOND STOREY ROOMS

All exterior wall outlets and switch plates are air sealed with foam gaskets behind the cover and child safety caps are in place. (Air Leakage Control)

Baseboards are caulked either from behind the trim work or in front where the trim meets the wall and floor. (Air Leakage Control)

Trim work around windows and doors is caulked. (Air Leakage Control)

All main floor and second-storey windows are either air sealed with weatherstripping and caulking, with an interior storm window, or with an interior storm window such as heat-shrink plastic or magnetic-acrylic interior storms. (Air Leakage Control)

Old-style slider windows (e.g. Pearson sliders) and other poor-fitting old windows, that are difficult to weatherstrip, are replaced with new energy efficient casement style windows (those that are hinged and swing in or out to open). (Insulation)

Exterior doors are weatherstripped on the sides, and bottom. (Air Leakage Control)

Any other penetrations through the exterior walls are air sealed. (Air Leakage Control)

Exterior walls have some insulation, (insulation can often be seen when the electrical outlet cover is removed). Most houses built after 1950 have at least R-7 (about 2" to 2 1/2" of insulation in the walls). (Insulation)

In the winter, the thermostat is consistently lowered (no more than 6° C, 10° F) during the day to reduce energy consumption when no one is home and during the night, while sleeping. This can be done manually or with the aid of a setback thermostat. (Heating & Cooling System)

Room air conditioners, are sized properly and on timers. They only require about 30 minutes to cool and dehumidify a room, so there is no need to have them on if no one is home. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

Window air conditioners are removed in the winter (so the window shuts tightly) or sealed in place and covered with a homemade or commercially-made insulating blanket for the winter months. (Air Leakage Control)

Floor heat registers, baseboards, radiators, and return air grills are kept clear of obstructions like rugs, drapes, and furniture. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

Kitchen appliances are in good working order, clean, and have tight-fitting seals. (Appliances)

Kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans are used regularly to vent excess moisture and odours directly outside. (Moisture Control)

Low-flow showerheads (less than 11 litres/second flow) are in place. (Water Conservation)

Low-flow faucet aerators (about 7 litres of water per minute) are in place in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. (Water Conservation)

THE ATTIC

Note: You'll need a ladder, ruler, flashlight, and perhaps protective clothing and eye wear - especially if you intend to crawl into the attic. The checklist can usually be completed from the attic hatch. If your home is a side or backsplit, there will be more will be more than one attic space.

Roof joists look dry (light frosting on the roof nails is common and ok, if it is a very cold day). (Moisture Control)

All penetrations into the attic, such as light fixtures, ceiling fans, plumbing stack, etc. are air sealed either from the attic side or ceiling side. You can check this by removing light fixture cover plates or by looking in the attic. (Air Leakage Control)

Exhaust fans vent directly out a soffit vent or a separate roof exhaust hood, and the exhaust fan ducting is insulated and has an air/vapour barrier. (Moisture Control)

Heating ducts that run through the attic are taped at the joints and insulated. Insulation is covered with a sealed plastic air/vapour barrier. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

Attic hatch is weatherstripped, trim work is caulked, and at least 10 cm (4") of insulation is permanently attached to the backside of the hatch cover. (Air Leakage Control & Insulation)

Attic contains at least 25cm (10") of insulation, evenly distributed throughout the attic floor. (Insulation)

Soffit vents are open allowing air to easily enter the attic (should be able to see light coming up through the soffit vents if looking during daylight hours). (Moisture Control)

Roof or gable end vents are open and light is coming through. (Moisture Control)

THE OUTSIDE

Brickwork and wood siding is in sound condition, with no crumbling brick or peeling paint. If you do encounter crumbling brick or peeling paint, it indicates that excessive moisture is escaping through the walls, instead of exiting through exhaust fans. (Moisture Control)

Caulking around door and window frames (where the frame meets the brick or siding) is in good condition and complete. (Air Leakage Control)

Exhaust hoods (dryer, kitchen, and bathroom) are in good condition and clear of lint or dirt. (Air Leakage Control)

Downspouts are connected and drain away from the foundation wall. (Moisture Control)

Landscaping around the foundation is graded to encourage water drainage away from the house. (Moisture Control)

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	Headers (the beams into which the floor joists sit) and the sillplate (the board which rests on the foundation) are air sealed with caulking or expanding foam. (Air Leakage Control)

	Header area is filled with insulation and covered with a vapour barrier. (Insulation)

	The 6mm polyethylene vapour barrier is sealed at edges with acoustical caulking to form an air barrier. (Air Leakage Control)

	All penetrations through basement walls made by plumbing, electrical, heating services, dryer vent, etc. are air sealed with caulking or expanding foam. (Air Leakage Control)

	If you have an unfinished basement or crawlspace, check for leaks by looking for spider webs. Wherever there is a web, there is a draft. (Air Leakage Control)

	All basement windows are either air sealed with weatherstripping and caulking, with an exterior storm window such as heat-shrink plastic or magnetic-acrylic interior storms. (Air Leakage Control)

	If there is a dirt floor, it is covered with plastic and sealed at the seams and to the basement walls with acoustical caulking, to stop excess moisture from entering your home. (Moisture Control)

	All exterior basement walls have more than 5cm (2") of insulation (minimum R-value of R-6 to R-10), running the full height, and there is a sealed air/vapour barrier in place on the warm side of the insulation (facing the room). If you aren't able to see insulation or air sealing behind finished walls, you may want to make a small hole to investigate. Once you have investigated, remember to reseal the hole afterwards. (Insulation)

	Furnace and air cleaner filters are cleaned or replaced every one or two months during the heating seasons.

	Furnace has a yearly maintenance check done by a heating contractor. Heating & Cooling Systems)

	Furnace ductwork is taped at all joints. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

	Ductwork which runs through cool or unheated areas is taped, insulated, and covered with an air/vapour barrier. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

	Hot water pipes are insulated for at least two metres (6ft) and cold water pipes insulated at least 1 metre (3 ft) from the water heater. (Insulation)

	If you have a dishwasher (and it doesn't have a booster heater), water heater temperature is set no higher than 60° C (140° F). For general household use, the water heater temperature should be at 54° C (130° F). Check the temperature of the water at a running tap with a cooking thermometer. (Appliances)

	Wood-burning fireplace has tight-fitting damper and glass doors, and no soot stains above the opening on the brick/stone front.

	Wood-burning fireplace draws the smoke up the chimney every time it is used and/or has its own supply of outside air for combustion either from a nearby window or a direct vent from outside.

	Clothes dryer vents directly outside. (Moisture Control)

	The dryer exhaust hood closes tightly after each use (if it is cold outside you may feel a draft inside the dryer chamber, or check the exhaust hood from outside to make sure the flap closes tightly). (Air Leakage Control)

	Dehumidifier operates only in the summer to reduce humidity levels in the basement. (Moisture Control)

	Where feasible, lights which are used for at least 3 hours a day have been replaced with a more energy efficient bulb. (Lighting)

	As they need replacing, all other standard incandescent bulbs are being switched to reduced-wattage incandescent bulbs. (Lighting)

	All exterior wall outlets and switch plates are air sealed with foam gaskets behind the cover and child safety caps are in place. (Air Leakage Control)

	Baseboards are caulked either from behind the trim work or in front where the trim meets the wall and floor. (Air Leakage Control)

	Trim work around windows and doors is caulked. (Air Leakage Control)

	All main floor and second-storey windows are either air sealed with weatherstripping and caulking, with an interior storm window, or with an interior storm window such as heat-shrink plastic or magnetic-acrylic interior storms. (Air Leakage Control)

	Old-style slider windows (e.g. Pearson sliders) and other poor-fitting old windows, that are difficult to weatherstrip, are replaced with new energy efficient casement style windows (those that are hinged and swing in or out to open). (Insulation)

	Exterior doors are weatherstripped on the sides, and bottom. (Air Leakage Control)

	Any other penetrations through the exterior walls are air sealed. (Air Leakage Control)

	Exterior walls have some insulation, (insulation can often be seen when the electrical outlet cover is removed). Most houses built after 1950 have at least R-7 (about 2" to 2 1/2" of insulation in the walls). (Insulation)

	In the winter, the thermostat is consistently lowered (no more than 6° C, 10° F) during the day to reduce energy consumption when no one is home and during the night, while sleeping. This can be done manually or with the aid of a setback thermostat. (Heating & Cooling System)

	Room air conditioners, are sized properly and on timers. They only require about 30 minutes to cool and dehumidify a room, so there is no need to have them on if no one is home. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

	Window air conditioners are removed in the winter (so the window shuts tightly) or sealed in place and covered with a homemade or commercially-made insulating blanket for the winter months. (Air Leakage Control)

	Floor heat registers, baseboards, radiators, and return air grills are kept clear of obstructions like rugs, drapes, and furniture. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

	Kitchen appliances are in good working order, clean, and have tight-fitting seals. (Appliances)

	Kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans are used regularly to vent excess moisture and odours directly outside. (Moisture Control)

	Low-flow showerheads (less than 11 litres/second flow) are in place. (Water Conservation)

	Low-flow faucet aerators (about 7 litres of water per minute) are in place in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. (Water Conservation)

	Roof joists look dry (light frosting on the roof nails is common and ok, if it is a very cold day). (Moisture Control)

	All penetrations into the attic, such as light fixtures, ceiling fans, plumbing stack, etc. are air sealed either from the attic side or ceiling side. You can check this by removing light fixture cover plates or by looking in the attic. (Air Leakage Control)

	Exhaust fans vent directly out a soffit vent or a separate roof exhaust hood, and the exhaust fan ducting is insulated and has an air/vapour barrier. (Moisture Control)

	Heating ducts that run through the attic are taped at the joints and insulated. Insulation is covered with a sealed plastic air/vapour barrier. (Heating & Cooling Systems)

	Attic hatch is weatherstripped, trim work is caulked, and at least 10 cm (4") of insulation is permanently attached to the backside of the hatch cover. (Air Leakage Control & Insulation)

	Attic contains at least 25cm (10") of insulation, evenly distributed throughout the attic floor. (Insulation)

	Soffit vents are open allowing air to easily enter the attic (should be able to see light coming up through the soffit vents if looking during daylight hours). (Moisture Control)

	Roof or gable end vents are open and light is coming through. (Moisture Control)

	Brickwork and wood siding is in sound condition, with no crumbling brick or peeling paint. If you do encounter crumbling brick or peeling paint, it indicates that excessive moisture is escaping through the walls, instead of exiting through exhaust fans. (Moisture Control)

	Caulking around door and window frames (where the frame meets the brick or siding) is in good condition and complete. (Air Leakage Control)

	Exhaust hoods (dryer, kitchen, and bathroom) are in good condition and clear of lint or dirt. (Air Leakage Control)

	Downspouts are connected and drain away from the foundation wall. (Moisture Control)

	Landscaping around the foundation is graded to encourage water drainage away from the house. (Moisture Control)